When you adopt a kitten or cat from a shelter, you save a life and gain an endlessly devoted, grateful friend. In this article, you’ll learn the pros and cons of adopting a shelter cat and how to help it settle into your home.
Types of Shelter Cats
Cats in shelters and rescues can roughly be divided into two groups:
- cats that used to have owners (former pets);
- cats that were picked up outdoors.
The first group includes cats that:
- were abandoned or given up by their owners;
- got lost and couldn’t find their way home;
- lost their owner, who died or could no longer care for them.
The second group includes community cats that lived outdoors near people, as well as feral cats (cats that avoid people and may act defensively around them). Kittens are a separate group: their personality isn’t formed yet, and they copy their mother’s behavior if she’s around.
This classification is rough, but it’s worth keeping in mind when choosing a cat. For example, a cat that grew up semi-feral is unlikely to sleep in your bed, and it will tolerate affection rather than demand it. Former pets usually adjust to a new home faster, though the stress of losing their home can temporarily weaken their immune system.
Where to Find a Shelter Cat
In the US, the easiest way to start is online: sites like Petfinder and Adopt-a-Pet list cats from thousands of shelters and rescue groups, with photos and detailed information about each animal. Your local animal shelter, humane society or SPCA will also have its own listings. In the UK, try Cats Protection, the RSPCA, Battersea and local rescue charities.
You can use filters to search by sex, age, color, breed and special traits. For example, say you’re looking for an orange cat under 2 years old that’s litter trained, vaccinated and good with other cats. Just choose those options, and the site will show you matching cats. Then contact the shelter or rescue and meet the cat you’ve been dreaming of.
11 Reasons to Adopt a Shelter Cat
- You save a life. Shelters take in millions of cats every year, and adopting one frees up space for another animal in need.
- Rescued cats are often deeply attached to their new owners. Many owners swear their shelter cats seem truly grateful for a warm, safe home.
- When you adopt an adult cat, you know exactly what you’re getting: its personality is already formed, and shelter staff can tell you all about it. Some cats love to purr and sleep only with their person, some keep a low profile when you’re busy, and some get along wonderfully with children and forgive them anything.
- Many shelter cats are hardy and easygoing about food, having already lived through tougher times.
- Shelter kittens and cats are usually litter trained, so you’re less likely to face surprise puddles and piles around the house.
- If a cat has health problems, the shelter will tell you, explain what treatment it received and pass on the vet’s recommendations.
- Shelter cats are usually vaccinated, dewormed, treated for fleas and microchipped before adoption, and the records come with them, so you’re less likely to bring home a cat with a hidden infection.
- Most shelters spay or neuter cats before adoption, so you won’t have to deal with nighttime yowling or territory marking.
- Shelter staff and volunteers can be your best advisers, especially during the first days at home. They’ll encourage and reassure you if things aren’t going smoothly, recommend a vet, help you understand your new pet’s behavior and suggest good food.
- You can even find a purebred cat at a shelter or breed-specific rescue. It won’t have pedigree papers, but you’ll see the breed’s looks and personality.
- You have a great chance of finding a perfect match. A young, active cat that will happily chase a toy on a string fits right into a family with children, while an older, calm lap cat can be a wonderful companion for a senior. And adopting is far cheaper than buying: in the US, adoption fees usually run about $50–$200, and they typically include spaying or neutering, vaccinations and a microchip.
Possible challenges:
- Even healthy-looking shelter cats may have been through a lot, and that can affect their health. Cold, heat, hunger and scavenging can leave their mark. Your new cat may always seek out the warmest spot in the house, or it may need a special diet or prescription food for a while or even for life.
- Cats that lived outdoors and then in a shelter can find it hard to adjust to a new home, with unfamiliar people, objects and smells, where everything seems scary and potentially dangerous. You’ll need to put in some effort to earn their trust.
- Many shelters and rescues follow up after adoption, so be ready for a call or message asking how your new family member is doing. Most are friendly and not pushy about it.
- Shelter cats may have a rocky start with other pets in your home. With proper introductions and some help from you, such as keeping animals in separate areas at first, you can usually avoid problems.
How to Choose a Shelter Cat
1. Find YOUR Cat
Everyone has personal preferences. For example, I’m not a fan of lopsided facial markings, and no matter how sorry I felt for the cat, I couldn’t see myself living with a cat whose nose is half pink and half black for years. Everyone has quirks like that, and it’s okay to take them into account.
Be careful with new social media groups that have very few members, and with pages raising money “for a shelter” without explaining exactly what the money will be spent on or providing detailed reports (receipts, vet bills and invoices). In the US, check whether a rescue is a registered nonprofit.
2. Ask Questions
If you like a cat in a photo, call or email the shelter or rescue and ask about it in detail. It’s important to find out the cat’s age and sex, where and when it was found, its health and personality.
The shelter will probably ask you some questions, too: whether you’ve had pets before, whether you live in an apartment or a house, whether you have small children or other pets, and whether you can afford vet care if the cat needs it. Many shelters ask you to fill out an adoption application.
The more you ask, and the more the shelter learns about you, the better the chance that the cat who comes home with you will be a great fit.
3. Meet the Cat
Meeting a cat at a shelter or in a foster home is pretty much the same. Ask ahead of time what treats the cat likes, and bring some along; it will make it easier to connect.
When you arrive, don’t rush to pick the cat up. Stand back without showing too much interest at first. Watch how the cat behaves in its familiar surroundings: how it interacts with other cats, and whether it’s overly aggressive or very withdrawn.
Then take a few steps toward it. A well-adjusted cat will notice, get curious and wait to see what you’ll do next. Now you can move closer, still watching, but avoid staring into the cat’s eyes, which it may see as a challenge. Wait for the cat to come to you, and if it doesn’t, try tempting it with a treat. Sooner or later, curiosity will win, and the cat will make contact. If the cat doesn’t mind, you can pet it and say a few kind words. That’s plenty for a first meeting.
Sometimes all this careful, step-by-step introduction isn’t necessary at all: the cat walks right up, rubs against your legs and asks to be picked up. That cat has already chosen you!
After the first meeting, don’t rush to take the cat home. Go home, think your decision over carefully and talk it through with your family. If you have even the slightest doubt, don’t adopt, because being returned to a shelter is hard on a cat. But if you’re sure, let the shelter know when you can pick up your new cat.
Preparing Your Home
Get ready before you bring your new cat home. First, go through every room and look for potential dangers, such as windows without secure screens, cords lying on the floor that a cat could get tangled in, and toxic plants like lilies. Second, buy these basics:
- a carrier (you’ll need it not only to bring your cat home but also for trips to the vet);
- two bowls (for food and water);
- food (ask the shelter what the cat has been eating and buy the same thing to start);
- a litter box and litter (choose a box that suits your cat’s size and age);
- a scratching post.
Don’t rush to buy cat trees, cat condos and other expensive extras. They’re useful, and your cat will thank you for them eventually, but it may take a while. Besides, not all cats like sleeping in enclosed beds, so a simple, inexpensive bed (or even a cardboard box with a blanket) will do at first.
See our full new kitten checklist.
Helping Your Shelter Cat Settle In
The move. When you pick up your cat from the shelter or foster home, remember that moving is another big source of stress for a cat. Spend a few minutes with your new pet, wait until it calms down, and only then gently place it in the carrier.
At home, set the carrier down in a quiet room, open the door and wait patiently for your cat to come out on its own. It’s best not to touch the cat for the first few hours. Ask other family members, especially children, to keep their distance. Let your new pet explore its space in peace, settle in and find its food and litter box. Read more about helping a cat adjust to a new home.
The litter box. When your cat uses the litter box, be sure to praise it and give it a treat. That will reinforce the habit and help you avoid accidents in the worst possible places.
When you pick up your cat, ask the shelter for a little used litter from the cat’s box. At home, mix it into the new litter: your cat will quickly find its own scent and understand what the box is for.
Food. Shelters often have to feed whatever food is donated or affordable. You’ll probably want to switch your new family member to a high-quality food, but do it gradually. Find out what the cat ate at the shelter, and for the first week, feed it the same food, mixing in a little of the new food and increasing the amount each day. A sudden change of diet often leads to an upset stomach and can make a cat stop eating.
From day one, set clear rules and show your cat what’s allowed and what’s off-limits. For example, if you treasure your collection of African violets, don’t let your cat jump onto the windowsill. Never yell at or hit a cat. A firm “no” in a calm voice, plus offering an acceptable alternative, is enough.
Stages of Adjustment for a Shelter Cat
Days 1–2. Getting to know the territory and the other living beings in it. The main mistake owners make is giving too much attention to a pet that doesn’t yet trust its new people or feel attached to them.
Days 3–4. A period of keen interest in everything around. A sleep/wake routine starts to form. The main mistake owners make is trying to speed things up: showering the cat with toys and approaching it to play or pet it. If the cat wants attention and affection, it will come to you.
Days 5–14. The first period of stability. A daily routine is fully established, and the cat begins to trust its home and people. It no longer sees a threat in its owners or its surroundings. During this time, some cats become extra affectionate and won’t leave their people’s side, as if afraid of losing them.
Months 1–3. Cats test their owners’ limits. If they’re not allowed in the baby’s crib, they may jump in on purpose just to see how people react. The main mistake owners make is bending the rules and allowing something “just this once.” During this period, it’s important to show your cat that if something isn’t allowed, it’s never allowed.
Months 3–6. The second period of stability. Life settles into a normal routine. The cat fully trusts the people it lives with, and its owners know what to expect from their furry friend. The cat becomes attached to the home and family, its true personality shines through, and it settles into habits suited to its new calm, comfortable life.
We hope this guide helps you choose your shelter cat. If you found it useful, please share it with friends who are thinking about adopting!
