Mating is a natural process, but breeding cats is a big responsibility. Before you mate your cat, ask yourself whether you’re ready to spend the time and money on a pregnancy and birth, on caring for the kittens for at least 12 weeks and on finding each of them a good home. Every year, shelters in the US and UK take in huge numbers of kittens that need homes.
Are you ready for the problems that can come up during mating, pregnancy and birth? In this article, we’ve gathered the key information about cat mating and answered the questions owners ask most often.
If you’re not planning to become a registered breeder, the kindest and healthiest choice is to have your cat spayed or neutered. Unspayed females are at higher risk of uterine infections (pyometra) and mammary cancer, and unneutered males are more likely to spray, roam and fight.
When Are Cats Ready to Mate?
It’s a mistake to think that a female cat is ready to breed as soon as she has her first heat, or that a male is ready as soon as he reaches sexual maturity. Cats should only be bred once they’re fully mature: physically developed, healthy and emotionally settled.
This varies between breeds, but responsible breeders usually wait until a female is at least about a year old, and often a little older. Many large and slow-maturing breeds, such as Maine Coons, need more time. Breeding a cat too young can lead to complications during birth, weak or stillborn kittens and health problems for the mother.
Waiting too long isn’t ideal either. Repeated heats without mating are stressful for a female, and some cats become harder to breed later.
Don’t use hormonal “contraceptive” pills or injections to suppress your cat’s heat. They can cause serious side effects, including uterine infections, mammary tumors and diabetes. If you’re not breeding, spaying is the safe option.
Where Does Mating Take Place?
Unlike human traditions, the “bride” goes to the “groom.” A male cat (the stud) is usually much more confident on his own territory. In unfamiliar surroundings, he may refuse to mate, or he may spend his time marking every corner before showing any interest in the female.
How to Prepare Cats for Mating
Preparation starts well in advance:
- Choose the right partner a few months ahead, especially for pedigree cats (see below).
- See the vet about three to four weeks before mating. Both cats should have a full health check, be tested for FeLV and FIV, and be free of infections and skin conditions such as ringworm. Only completely healthy cats should be bred.
- Make sure vaccinations are up to date. Vaccinations should be given well before mating, never during pregnancy.
- Treat for parasites. About two weeks before mating, treat both cats for fleas and worms with products your vet recommends.
- Trim the claws of both cats just before mating, so they don’t hurt each other.
- Don’t bathe the cats before mating: washing removes their natural scent and can make mating harder.
Breeding Pedigree Cats
If you’re breeding pedigree cats, the owners choose a suitable pair in advance, often through cat shows, breed clubs or the breed’s registry: the Cat Fanciers’ Association (CFA) or The International Cat Association (TICA) in the US, or the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy (GCCF) in the UK. Both sides prepare documents proving the cats’ pedigree and registration, as well as health and vaccination records, and sign a stud contract.
The contract sets out the details of both cats and their health, the owners’ details and the terms: the stud fee and how it’s paid (in money or, sometimes, a kitten from the litter), how many matings or how many days are included, and what happens if the female doesn’t become pregnant, for example a free repeat mating or a partial refund.
A written stud contract protects both parties from misunderstandings and makes the deal fair.
How to Choose the Right Partner
To produce healthy, high-quality kittens and protect the breed, follow these rules:
- Avoid close relatives. The cats shouldn’t be closely related. Breed clubs and registries can help you check pedigrees and avoid inbreeding.
- Health testing. Responsible breeders screen their cats for inherited diseases common in their breed, such as polycystic kidney disease (PKD) in Persians and Exotics, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) in Maine Coons, Ragdolls and other breeds, and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) in some breeds. DNA tests are available for many conditions.
- Only breed combinations that are allowed and safe. For example, two Scottish Folds must never be mated together: folded ears are caused by a gene that affects cartilage and bones throughout the body, and fold-to-fold matings produce kittens with severe, painful skeletal problems. (Because of these welfare concerns, the GCCF doesn’t recognize the Scottish Fold at all.)
- Consider looks and type. To get kittens with particular colors or patterns, breeders consider the genetics of both parents’ coats.
- Check blood types. Cats have blood types A, B and the rare AB. If a type B female is mated with a type A or AB male, the kittens may inherit type A blood, and the antibodies in the mother’s first milk can destroy their red blood cells. This condition, called neonatal isoerythrolysis, is often fatal. Blood-type both cats in breeds where type B is common, such as British Shorthairs, Devon Rex and Birmans.
What Owners Need to Prepare
As we mentioned, mating usually takes place at the stud’s home. The stud owner should provide a spacious, quiet room without too much furniture, or a dedicated stud house. Someone will need to keep an eye on the cats during mating and be ready to step in if needed, for example if the cats start to fight.
The female’s owner should bring a carrier and everything the “bride” will need during her stay: her litter box, food and water bowls, her usual food for a few days and a familiar blanket.
How Do Cats Mate?
The female is usually brought to the male on about the second or third day of her heat, and she stays with him for two to four days. The cats are left in a separate room where nothing will disturb them.
Mating is always preceded by a courtship ritual. The male gets to know the female, sniffs her, calls to her and slowly approaches. At first, the female may not let him near: she hisses and swats him away. It may look as though she isn’t happy to see him at all, but this is part of the ritual. When the male backs off to a safe distance, the female starts to flirt, calling and rolling around. She takes up the typical mating position: crouching with her front legs down, her hindquarters raised and her tail to one side. When the male approaches, she may run away, and it all starts again. This “game” can go on for hours.
When she’s ready, the female allows the male to mount her. He grips the scruff of her neck in his teeth and mounts her from behind. The mating itself lasts only a few seconds. Afterward, the female usually lets out a loud cry, turns and swats at the male, and rolls on the floor. The cry is thought to be caused by the backward-pointing barbs on the male’s penis, which also trigger ovulation. Then both cats lose interest in each other for a while and groom themselves.
After a pause, they mate again. Cats are “induced ovulators,” meaning the female only releases eggs after mating, usually after several matings. That’s why the female is usually left with the male for a few days: multiple matings increase the chance of pregnancy. A female can also be mated by more than one male during a heat, which is why kittens in one litter can have different fathers.
Mating Rules
Experienced breeders and vets recommend following these rules:
- mating always takes place on the stud’s territory;
- the female is brought to the stud early in her heat, when she shows she’s ready;
- at first, the female is kept in her carrier or a pen in the stud’s room, so she can get used to the new smells and the male;
- once the cats have sniffed each other and seem relaxed, they’re let into the room together;
- the stud owner should be able to keep an eye on the pair;
- if the female stops showing signs of heat from stress, she can stay near the male for a while longer, or go home and return during her next heat;
- don’t interfere unnecessarily, shout at the cats or try to rush things, and never force or hold a female down.
If you own the stud, be prepared for a few noisy days and sleepless nights. Stay calm and patient, even if you’re tired of the cats’ loud courtship!
Mating Problems and Solutions
Mating doesn’t always succeed the first time. Cats may refuse to mate, or go through the motions without successful mating. First, try to find and solve the problem.
Problems with the Male
- Unfamiliar surroundings. A male feels much more confident on his own territory.
- Inexperience or immaturity. He may go through the motions but not manage to mate.
- A ring of hair around the penis can prevent mating, especially in long-haired cats. A vet or experienced breeder can show you how to check for this.
- Health or hormone problems, which a vet can investigate.
- The season. Some males are less active in winter.
- A bad past experience, for example being badly scratched by an aggressive female.
- He doesn’t like the female. A very aggressive “bride” can frighten an inexperienced male.
Tips:
- Give the cats plenty of time together in a quiet room.
- Separate them for short periods to rekindle their interest.
- Pair inexperienced males with experienced, calm females.
Problems with the Female
- The wrong timing. Keep a diary of her heats so you know exactly where she is in her cycle.
- Stress. The journey and new surroundings are stressful, which can stop her from accepting the male.
- A bad past experience with mating.
- Hormonal problems, for example after hormonal contraceptives, or illness.
- She doesn’t like the place or the male.
Tips:
- Give her more time to settle in at the stud’s home.
- Try a different male: a female may reject one male but accept another.
- Ask your vet to check for health or hormonal problems if she repeatedly refuses or doesn’t become pregnant.
Your Cat’s Behavior After Mating
A female cat doesn’t calm down immediately after mating. For the first few days, she may keep calling, looking for a male and seeming restless, while her hormones settle. Don’t worry: this usually passes within a few days. Keep her indoors and away from other males during this time.
When she comes home, she may also seem tired, hide away, sleep a lot and eat less for a day or two, which is a reaction to the stress of the trip. Don’t force her to eat, but make sure she always has fresh water. If she refuses food for more than a day or two, or seems unwell, see your vet.
How Often Can a Cat Be Bred?
Breeders and vets have different opinions, but responsible breeders never exhaust their cats with pregnancy after pregnancy. Many breed clubs recommend no more than three litters in two years, with enough time between litters for the mother to recover fully, and retiring cats from breeding (and spaying them) at a reasonable age.
If Breeding Isn’t in Your Plans
Unspayed and unneutered cats that aren’t bred can have a difficult time: females yowl and may lose weight during repeated heats, and males spray, roam and fight. Unspayed females are also at higher risk of mammary cancer and pyometra, a life-threatening uterine infection.
If you’re not planning to become a breeder, the best thing you can do for your cat is to have her spayed or him neutered, ideally at around four to six months of age, before the first heat.
What Owners Say
Owners’ experiences show that mating doesn’t always go smoothly. A common story is that two young, inexperienced cats spend days courting without success, while an inexperienced male succeeds quickly with an older, experienced female. Owners of females that had a frightening first experience say it can make them very defensive with the next male. And owners who paid a stud fee without a clear contract sometimes regret not agreeing in advance what would happen if the female didn’t get pregnant. The lessons: pair inexperienced cats with experienced partners, be patient and always use a written contract.
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